Fruits & Vegetables Codexery

Grains of paradise

A pungent West African spice once traded as 'grains of paradise.'

Grains of paradise, also called melegueta pepper, Guinea grains, ossame, or fom wisa, is a plant from the ginger family and a close relative of cardamom. Its seeds—used whole or ground—taste pungent and peppery, with a hint of citrus. It is sometimes mistaken for alligator pepper, and the names "African pepper" and "Guinea pepper" can also refer to other spices, like grains of Selim. In Cameroon, it is called jujube, but this should not be confused with the fruit of the jujube tree.

This herbaceous perennial grows in swampy areas along the West African coast. It has trumpet-shaped purple flowers that produce pods 5–7 cm long, filled with small reddish-brown seeds. The seeds’ heat comes from aromatic ketones like (6)-paradol; essential oils, which give cardamom its flavor, are only present in trace amounts. The stem is often short and marked with scars from dropped leaves. The narrow leaves resemble bamboo, with a well-organized vascular system. The flowers are aromatic, with an orange lip and a rich pinkish-orange upper part.

The plant is a major part of the Western Lowland gorilla’s diet—about 80 to 90 percent. Gorillas eat the whole fruit, helping disperse the seeds, and also use the plant as the most common material for making nests and beds.

In West and North Africa, melegueta pepper is a common cooking spice. It was traditionally carried by camel caravans across the Sahara to Sicily and the rest of Italy. Pliny the Elder mentioned it as "African pepper," but it was later forgotten in Europe. It was renamed "grains of paradise" and became a popular black pepper substitute in the 14th and 15th centuries. The *Ménagier de Paris* recommended it for wine that "smells stale." During the Middle Ages and early modern period, doctors and herbalists followed the theory of the four humors; John Russell wrote in *The Boke of Nurture* that grains of paradise were "hot and moist."

In 1469, King Afonso V of Portugal gave Lisbon merchant Fernão Gomes a monopoly on trade in the Gulf of Guinea, including exclusive rights to *Aframomum melegueta*—then called malagueta pepper. The deal cost 100,000 real per year and required exploring 160 km of African coast annually for five years, showing the spice’s European value. After Columbus reached the New World in 1492 and brought back chili peppers, the name *malagueta* was applied to that new chili because of its similar he

species
Aframomum melegueta
family
Zingiberaceae
native region
West Africa
also known as
melegueta pepper, Guinea grains, ossame, fom wisa
key flavor compounds
aromatic ketones such as (6)-paradol
primary historical use
spice and flavoring for food, beer, and wine

Lore & Background

Grains of paradise is an herbaceous perennial plant native to swampy habitats along the West African coast. Its trumpet-shaped, purple flowers develop into pods containing numerous small, reddish-brown seeds. The pungent taste comes from aromatic ketones like (6)-paradol, while essential oils occur only in traces. The plant is a major component in the diet of Western Lowland gorillas, who eat the entire fruit and use the plant to make nests and beds.

Mentioned by Pliny as 'African pepper' but later forgotten in Europe, the spice was renamed 'grains of paradise' and became a popular substitute for black pepper in the 14th and 15th centuries. In 1469, King Afonso V of Portugal granted a monopoly on its trade to Lisbon merchant Fernão Gomes. After Columbus reached the New World, the name malagueta was applied to chili peppers due to their similar piquancy. The spice's importance is shown by the designation of the Grain Coast in Liberia.

In West African folk medicine, grains of paradise are valued for warming and digestive properties, and among the Efik people in Nigeria have been used for divination and ordeals determining guilt. It has been introduced to the Caribbean and Latin America, where it is used in Voodoo religious rites and in African-American hoodoo for luck-bringing.

Reader's Guide

Grains of paradise holds significance as a historically important spice that shaped trade routes and colonial exploration in West Africa. Its value led to the naming of the Grain Coast and drove Portuguese exploration under the monopoly granted to Fernão Gomes. The spice was a popular substitute for black pepper in medieval Europe, used to improve stale wine and flavor sausages and beer. Its importance waned after an 18th-century British act of Parliament forbade its use in alcoholic beverages, though it continued to be used illegally to strengthen malt liquors and gin. Today, the condiment is used in gourmet cuisine, craft beers, gins, and Norwegian akvavit. The spice also plays a role in traditional medicine and religious rites in West Africa, the Caribbean, and among African-American practitioners. Its presence in the diet of wild lowland gorillas appears beneficial to their cardiovascular health, while its absence in captive gorillas may contribute to poor heart health in zoos.

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